Worth The Drive… Gaulart & Maliclet: Charleston’s Hidden Parisian Treasure

By Tammie Hughes

Charleston has evolved over the years. The city has retained hints of its antebellum era and continues to boast a unique European feel. King Street remains the crowning jewel, and the charm is expanding into the neighborhoods that make up the downtown area. Gaulart & Maliclet French Café (Fast & French to the locals) is a quaint example of that neighborhood nuance. It sits on Broad near lower King, nestled perfectly in the Historic District, between South Broad and The French Quarter.

In 1984 French artists Gwylene Gallimard & Jean-Marie Mauclet had a vision to provide a gathering place with a vibe of community, art, and clean, simple cuisine. They had a philosophy and a purpose. The venue is deeply rooted in its history, and when you spend time there, you instantly feel as if you are participating in performance art.

The support of the local patrons is unmatched in this hidden treasure, and its foothold in the community is strong. Fast & French held steady when the original owners handed over the reins to their understudies in 2011. Fast forward a few years, and only one of the understudies remains, David Lawerence Mitchell.

With his background in the world of contemporary art in New York, he fits in perfectly with the vision and philosophy of the founders. Lawrence, along with his partner, Marck Mora Gomez, put down permanent roots in the Charleston area in 2020 to focus on the cafe full-time. I recently sat down with Lawrence to discuss the challenges and triumphs they faced.

Fast and French celebrated forty years in May 2024, a testament to their dedication. The establishment has surpassed many obstacles; they remained open during Hurricanes Floyd and Hugo, survived the pandemic, and lost their outdoor space when Charleston’s City Hall County Administrator pulled their permit to use the city’s property. With such a small footprint, it was a huge challenge for the Broad Street institution, which had been utilizing the al fresco area during the pandemic. The venue sits directly in front of the probate court and adjacent to the county’s historic courthouse. Considering the environment we live in today with opportunistic protests and periodic social unrest, it became clear that the outdoor dining area needed to be removed to ensure the safety of Charleston’s judicial representatives.

“The county had originally let us use the outdoor space in the back frequently, and then they seized our property and lopped off the back of the building one day during service. After a very public battle, the county sold the building back to us, with its new, smaller footprint. We do not own one inch of space past our back door or on either side. We are at the mercy of our neighbors. The firm next door, Duffy & Young, has graciously allowed us to expand our footprint to include the outdoor sidewalk seating in front of their space on evenings and weekends, and that has been very helpful,” Lawerence said.

As Lawrence expanded on this specific challenge, he stated that he does understand the reasoning behind the county’s unwillingness to reissue the permit for the outdoor space.

“We have been permitted as a ‘sidewalk cafe.’ Attitudes are changing…” he replied. I asked how they continue to foster a sense of family and community… “JeMa and GwGa [a.k.a. the original owners] were real pros at this. As artists, they saw the business as so much more. It is a blueprint for creating community, meaningful work, and breaking barriers. I have never lost that feeling of importance opening the cafe each morning. I will say that the world is starved for meaningful connection, and providing a space where that can occur is why I think we have such loyal patrons and staff. We also challenge people’s expectations, leaving a lasting impact. We are often the first place where children are not given a kids menu; we are one of the few places where we don’t offer sweet tea or Coke, and we are the only place that doesn’t have ketchup; our hotdog is served with Dijon,” he said proudly.

Fast & French is so much more than a Parisian cafe in Charleston. It is a mainstay, a force to be reckoned with, a local favorite, and a place where community is the first order of business. Lawrence comments that the cafe is full of “home cooks,” most of whom started at the dish station. They have the backbone of recipes handed down to each cook rising through the ranks, and they promote the artistry of the offerings; it’s fluid.

“We make three hot soups and two cold soups each morning, sometimes more. It depends on the season.

We are all really good home cooks. You can taste this distinction. A home cook understands the relationship between thriftiness, quality, and quantity. We use the best ingredients we can afford and make just enough to get us through the day.” Lawrence explained.

I sampled five soups. The Cold Cucumber Soup was refreshing, simple, and clean. The Cold Strawberry Soup was surprising with the tartness of a blend of sour cream and yogurt and paired quite well with the Beaujolais. The Chicken Mhamas was a comfy blend of chicken, chickpeas, and spices. The Algerian

Beef was my favorite with zucchini and okra. The Broccoli Soup was inviting, and I could have a cup of it every day!

The special changes each day and is served with a glass of wine for only $15. This is a local favorite and for good reason. The daily special during my visit was seafood pasta. Shrimp, scallops, and fish are poached in a decadent ginger broth and completed with spinach, Israeli pearled couscous, fresh tomatoes, and shrimp butter. It is served with fresh melon and cheese-covered baguette slices.

A few of the local favorites are Moroccan Lamb Couscous, Harissa, and Bouillabaisse. The broth for the bouillabaisse is started early morning to let the flavors develop. The dish is offered daily and finished in a cast iron pot, table-side.

When asked about the future…

“We are focused on strengthening our hold on Broad Street and refining what we do and who we are,” Lawrence replied.

They are supported by the locals, tourists, and returning guests – who make Fast & French their first stop when visiting. The slogan touted throughout the venue is “Nothing has changed. Everything has changed” – I think I get it now. It’s true, much has changed since the original artist-owners developed a philosophy to build a brand with purpose, and yet, nothing has changed. Hats off to the dedication and perseverance of what is truly a hidden gem, a local favorite, and a Parisian cafe in downtown Charleston – with a philosophy, a purpose, and a lot of flair. I will be back for the Bouillabaisse!

Gaulart & Maliclet Cafe “Fast and French Charleston”
98 Broad Street • Charleston, SC 29401 • 843-577-9797
Open Daily 8am – 8pm and Until 9PM Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays
www.FastandFrenchCharleston.com