Rosé Roundup — Just in Time for Spring

Recipe by Tammie Hughes 

On a recent trip to Total Wine®, I was pleased to encounter a nice selection of rosés. My mind drifted from the bold cabernets, luscious merlots, and spicy pinot noirs to the light, crisp whites and rosé wines of summer. This daydream is coming to life as the weather warms—especially after the recent cold snap and snow throughout the region!

Rosé wines are made from red grapes; the lighter color results from shortened contact with the skin during maceration. Another method for creating rosé wine is “direct press,” which avoids maceration altogether. During direct press, the juice is immediately drawn off the skin. Both processes are called “intentional,” i.e., for the sole purpose of making rosés.

There’s also Saignée—which bleeds off juice early in maceration to concentrate flavors for big, bold reds. Vineyards that use this concentration technique will then bottle the “bleed off” as a rosé. Ideal, right? — Get a nice, big, bold red, and use the early extraction for a lovely pink instead of being wasteful. The only occasion where finished white and red wines are blended is for rosé champagne—a white bubbly will have a touch of Pinot Noir or similar added for hue and flavor. Where the incorrect notion of blending reds and whites originated from is baffling; it’s even illegal in France and some other regions.

Rosé wines are mostly light and dry, with citrus undertones, light fruits on the nose, and a subtle floral finish. Unless specifically produced to present a sweeter variation, rosé wines are mostly bone-dry.

For those who prefer a little sweetness, some vineyards will halt fermentation early (which yields higher sugar content by simply not allowing the yeast to gobble up all the fruit and produce alcohol), which leaves residual fruit and increases sweetness. Winemakers can also leave grapes on the vine longer; late-harvest grapes naturally have concentrated sugars.

I embrace the crisp, light, and refreshing bone-dry rosés. Bertrand Cotes des Roses is one of my favorites. Watch out for the glass “cork” as it can be tricky. Make sure to turn the bottle upside down to see the glass bottom that resembles a rose. It’s a French blend using the varietals—Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault. I also enjoy the elusive Simi Sonoma Dry County Rosé. I fell in love with Simi during a visit to their winery years ago, where we enjoyed a private chef’s luncheon, tours, tasting events, and were hosted at their Simi Alexander Valley Guest House. I’m unsure if they still own the residence. It was a beautiful experience, and I enjoyed waking up to the view of vineyards. And Rodney Strong’s Rose of Pinot Noir Russian River Valley is fruit forward with refreshing acidity.

There are tons of excellent rosés. Here are a few easy-to-find options:

• Dune Grand Gris Rosé
• Samuel Robert Rosé Willamette Vintner’s Reserve
• Wollfer Estate Summer in a Bottle Rosé Cotes de Provence Guy Mousset Cotes du Rhone Rosé
• Rodney Strong Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley Phebus Malbec Rosé
• Fleur de Mer Rosé